Two Attempts of Mt. Rainier, 1995
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Second Attempt, August, 1995
In early August, 1995, my good friend and co-worker Robert
Go back to the
On August 26, Robert and I left Paradise Lodge and headed up the Disappointment Cleaver route, with the intention of spending one night
at Camp Muir and then heading for the summit on the following day. We went without the benefit (or expense) of the guide service and hoped
that we had enough knowledge and skills to stay out of trouble. Although we had both had training in technical alpine climbing, neither of us
were very experienced.
Two events happened prior to our trip that gave us cause for concern. Ten days earlier, two rangers had slipped and fallen to their deaths
during a high mountain rescue attempt, and a few days after that, two other climbers had slipped, fallen and also died. Four deaths in less
than two weeks. Apparently the mountain becomes icy and treacherous late in the season. We resolved to exercise extreme caution and
to stay within sight of the RMI-guided groups. If they turned back due to unsafe conditions, then we would too.
Travelling self-sustained meant that we had heavier packs than what I had carried in June, when RMI provided the lodging and food. Now
we had to provide and carry our own rope, snow anchors, tents, sleeping pads and stove, all of which added substantially to the pack weight.
Climbing with a guide service is probably easier, but climbing on our own felt more peaceful and more rewarding.... and was definitely cheaper.
When we arrived at Camp Muir on the afternoon of our first day, the weather was again less than ideal and threatened to snow. Robert made
an on-the-spot decision to stay in the public shelter since there was plenty of room and it was relatively cozy compared to the blustery outdoors.
I elected to go ahead and pitch a tent and brave the elements. Robert would stay in the protection of the shelter, but would have to endure
frequent interruptions to his sleep, caused by climbers coming and going at all hours.
 Robert stayed in the public shelter and had warmth and protection from the elements. |
I spent the night on the snow and had a good night's sleep with no interruptions.* |
We arose at the early hour of 2:00am and began preparing for the climb. The sky was crystal clear and the stars were brilliant. Good weather had returned, at least for now. By 3:00am, we were geared up, roped up and ready to go. We were excited and glad to be moving. The atmosphere was almost surreal as we trudged across the Cowlitz glacier, following the bobbing line of headlamps of other teams heading upward. At 3:00am, we were one of the last to leave camp. As we climbed to the corner at Cathedral rocks and turned Northwest toward the Ingraham Glacier, the early dawn light gave us our first real look at the imposing terrain.
 Little Tahoma Peak at dawn |
 Sun cups along the climbing track |
We walked across the Ingraham glacier, skirted some crevasses and passed a scary, treacherous area at the base of Disappointment Cleaver. The sun came up and not only warmed us, but increased our good spirits. The mountain was beautiful in the morning light and views were stupendous in every direction. We climbed the first half of the steep Cleaver, our crampons skittering on exposed rock and gravel. The route returned to snow and became even steeper. We reached the top of the Cleaver and continued on, now climbing into new territory for both of us. My RMI group had turned around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver in June. Our excitement was building, but so was our fatigue. The grade seemed never-ending.
 The views from high on the mountain were stupendous. |
 Robert at work on the steep slope. |
Finally, at 10:00am, we reached the rim of the summit crater. Success! We had reached the top of the mountain! The weather was holding and the sun was still shining. The RMI group was here, totalling about 25 climbers, but they soon roped back up and departed. Robert and I took a much-needed rest and food break and walked around the crater, enjoying our location and our achievement. Robert investigated a steam pit while I headed for the mountain's actual high point, which is an insignificant spot on the rim that is only about 100' higher than the crater floor. While there, I handed off my camera to another climber to receive my one and only, poorly-framed photo of myself at the summit.
 Dave at the summit. |
After an hour at the summit, Robert and I descended to Camp Muir, packed everything up, returned to Paradise, and drove back to Seattle.
It was a long and tiring day on a weekend that was too short, but we departed the mountain feeling elated. We felt very fortunate to have
had good weather and success on a mountain where neither is guaranteed.
Go to the First Attempt page for photos from Dave's first Rainier adventure.
* Snow applet by anfyteam.com