160 Miles on the John Muir Trail, 1992
WEDNESDAY, JULY 1 -- DAY 3
I awake at 5:45am to a perfectly clear dawn. I slept well, but was perhaps a little warm. A thermometer check shows that the current temperature is 31°, although it feels warmer than that. I mean, 31° -- that's freezing! The tent is damp inside again, from condensation. I'll stop early tonight and dry it out. There was no sign of bears and my food is still intact, hanging in the tree. My laundry didn't dry well overnight and is still damp.
I pack up, hurrying a little to get everything done and get on the trail, but somehow it still takes 2 full hours before I am ready to go. The sun is on camp as I leave at 7:45am, and the temperature is up to 40°. Its a terrific morning -- perfectly clear and calm! The good trail provides easy walking through the cool forest, following a wide, noisy creek downstream. In a half hour, I come to the junction with the Lake Edison trail, turn left and cross the creek on a sturdy wooden bridge. I begin climbing now, heading for Bear Ridge and a 2000' elevation gain staring me in the face.
I walk through a meadow with three bouncing deer, then climb through a marsh where the trail is indistinct. In one area, the trail traverses some goop on a 150' long boardwalk. After passing through a nice stand of aspens, I ascend into thick pine forest. I'm on a long, steep grade, with lots and lots of switchbacks! I wish I had been counting -- there must be at least 50 of them!
I hear a mysterious, low hollow sound, almost like somebody thumping a large, hollow log. I'm sure its some kind of animal, but what! It doesn't sound quite like an owl. I don't know what it is nor do I get a look at it, even though it sounds close. Perhaps a grouse? I never do see it. The trail continues to climb and I begin to tire. After an hour, I stop for a short break. I'm high above the valley floor now, but probably only about half way to the top of Bear Ridge. The weather is pleasant, calm, clear and in the upper-40's. I have good views back at the mountains around Silver Pass, but not of the pass itself.
Finally, after two full hours of steady climbing, the grade eases off and provides easy, level walking past the summit of Bear Ridge, which offers no views because of the dense trees. I say "easy" walking, but I'm so tired after the long climb that its hard to keep going.
After a mile of level walking, I approach the southern edge of the ridge and the trail gradually begins to descend. I take a much needed break. Its pleasant here --- sunny, calm and in the upper-40's, and I am glad to spend 20 minutes without the heavy pack on my back, before continuing onward.
Soon I come to the junction of another trail heading for Edison Lake. Below here, the descent becomes steeper and the trees open up a little, giving great views of the Bear Creek valley where I am headed. Mt. Senger dominates the horizon, along with Gemini and Mt. Hooper. Senger is just beyond Selden Pass and in the direction that I am headed. I meet a young, Aussie-sounding couple going the opposite direction, heading up Bear Ridge. The grade on this side of the ridge seems just as long as the other side, but is not nearly as steep. After an hour, the worst of the descent is behind me and I arrive at a junction with the Bear Creek trail, which is thick with mosquitoes. This is a low point on the trail here and I begin climbing again, following beautiful, clear Bear Creek upstream past many cascading waterfalls. Fortunately, this is an easy grade because I'm tired, but it is uphill nonetheless. I'm pretty well spent after the long climb up and over Bear Ridge.
I pass a horseman leading a pack horse and he's looking for a couple of backpackers that he's supposed to deliver food to. I arrive at the junction with the Lake Italy trail and stop for a half hour lunch break. This is a magnificent, sunny day, but a few billowy, white clouds are approaching from the south, although they are still far away. The temperature is 60°, calm and extremely pleasant! I'm tired, but I will make it to Marie Lakes tonight, which is 4 miles away and all uphill. I've got lots of time and should have an early stop.
From here, I walk alongside splashing Bear Creek, following it gently upstream. There's not really much to look at in this valley except for forest and stream, since the mountains are mostly hidden by the trees. I fetch water from the creek and add iodine. I have been filtering water in camp at night, but on the trail its much more convenient to just add an iodine pill and keep walking. And its surprising how good iodine water can taste when you're thirsty! Normally I despise it, but it tastes good today!
I meet what appears to be father and son backpackers, headed north, and then cross the west fork of Bear Creek on a log. I pass by two backpacks sitting alongside the trail, owners unseen. Now along comes a hermit-looking hiker, with a long gray beard. The trail suddenly seems crowded! I come to the junction with the Seven Gables trail, and as I look around, I notice thick, white clouds are closing in from the south. They are still fairly far away and I hope they stay that way.
I'm getting closer to a big push towards Selden Pass now and am currently at a rather scary crossing of the west fork of Bear Creek. The water is moving fast and I carefully hop across the wide stream on a series of half submerged boulders, trying to keep my feet from getting wet. I am successful, but there are a couple of spots that are a little chancy. I must be careful! I've fallen in on stream crossings like this on past hikes and doused my camera! I definitely don't want to do that on this trip!
I pass the Three Island Lake trail and then come to a stunning little meadow with a pretty stream running through it. I pass a young backpacking couple and then arrive at the junction with the Rose Lake trail. Its 60° and really pleasant, with just enough breeze to keep me from being too warm. I leave the meadow and resume climbing, now getting fairly close to Marie Lakes. As the breeze continues, I start to feel a little cool and wonder if it will be windy and unpleasant camping beside the lake. I'm also approaching treeline which could be a problem since I've got to have trees to hang my food. Or do I? I don't know --- maybe there won't be any bears at this higher altitude.
I'm getting close to the day's destination, but I'm becoming very tired. There was just a lot of climbing today. Finally, Marie Lakes is in sight and I reach its shore at 4:00pm. This is beautiful -- REALLY beautiful! Like a postcard! A man is fishing nearby and a group is camped on the shore of the lake. Uh oh -- they've got the one obvious campsite! I drop my pack and look around. There's got to be another site somewhere.
Eureka! I found a good one --- a lovely spot, with majestic views in all directions! I'm in heaven! The weather is good, the scenery is magnificent and I'm here early so I've got time to enjoy it! I set up my tent, hang last night's damp laundry to dry, filter water and then wash up. Its only 6:00pm, so I have time to walk around and take pictures. Its a bit breezy here, but not too bad and not too cold. The sky has been clear for most of the day, but now a few dark clouds are roaming the sky. Uh oh! A particularly menacing one is approaching from the west and seems to be dumping on the next mountain range over, perhaps 5 miles. This could mean trouble! I hurry with my cooking and then batten down camp in case of rain.
The big dark cloud obscures the sun, but after awhile it recedes a little and the sun pops back out. This happens two or three times -- the sun goes behind the cloud and then reappears again. Finally, the cloud truly retreats and the threat appears to be over, but who knows what will happen overnight. Its getting late and I lose the sun for good as it sets behind a mountain.
I hang my food, but have my doubts that its hung well enough to keep away a determined bear. My chosen tree is not a "textbook" tree, but its the best one available. I go for a walk and take a few pictures. This is a tremendously picturesque setting and I'm very glad that my schedule is jumbled so that I can camp here! I've been making more distance each day than I expected and am now 12 miles farther along the trail than planned.
There are many great pictures to be had, but I'm a little late and the light is almost gone. I wish I had taken this walk earlier, but of course the dark clouds blocked the sun then. What an evening! What a place! I love it here! I would almost consider sticking around here for another day just to enjoy the scenery, but I have a feeling that every pass has the potential to be this good. And I've got five more passes to do! Yippee!
"Climb the mountains and get their good tidings,
Nature's peace will flow into you
as sunshine flows into trees,
while cares drop off like autumn leaves."
- John Muir
Two guys are camped a couple of hundred yards to the north, but are not intruding at all. There is a cheerful little bird singing up a storm! I don't recognize him and wish it were lighter so I could try to find him and see what he is. This is such a great evening that I don't want it to end, but its growing dark and my body is tired so I start migrating toward my sleeping bag. My middle back feels strained tonight from carrying the backpack and I need to lay down -- I've felt this back strain before on the third day of a hike. Its annoying, but nothing serious. Sleep comes quickly and I drift off with happy thoughts.
Day 2
Day 4